Wyohaus German Shepherds

Your Puppy’s Go-Home Kit

Here’s everything you will receive when you pick up your Wyohaus puppy:

1. Veterinary Certificate of Health – A signed health certificate from our veterinarian confirming your puppy’s wellness at the time of pickup.
2. AKC Reunite Microchip – Your puppy will already be microchipped and registered with AKC Reunite. This includes a free lifetime subscription and a pamphlet explaining how the microchip program works.
   • We’ll transfer the registration into your name after pickup. To do this, we’ll need your name, address, email, and phone number.
3. Core Vaccination – Your puppy will have received their first DHPP or DHLPP vaccine (distemper, hepatitis, parvovirus, and parainfluenza, with leptospirosis if recommended by our vet).
4. Deworming Record – The puppies have been dewormed with Panacur starting between 6-7 weeks. You’ll get the dosage and schedule of rounds given.
5. Gift Basket – this includes toys, chews, a blanket that smells like home to help your puppy adjust to their new environment, and more!
6. AKC Registration Paperwork – This may arrive separately, as the registration processing can take some time. Expect to receive it within a few months of pickup. We’ll need your puppy’s chosen name to complete the paperwork.
7. An Embark DNA Test – Every puppy in this litter has had a DNA sample submitted to Embark for a Breeder’s DNA Test. These tests screen for breed-relevant genetic conditions and provide useful information for our ongoing breeding decisions. We already have a strong idea of the results, but if you’d like a copy when they come in, just let us know!

The First Week

The first week is an adjustment period for both you and your puppy. Your puppy is leaving the only environment they’ve ever known and may feel confused, overwhelmed, or even a little scared. This is normal.

Your job this week is to keep things simple, calm, and consistent:

• Stick to a routine. Feed at the same times each day. Take them out for potty breaks frequently (every hour, after eating, after playing, and after sleeping).
• Keep things low-key. Avoid overwhelming them with too many new people, places, or animals in the first few days.
• Crate time matters. Start crate training right away, using the crate for naps, quiet time, and sleeping at night. This gives your puppy an important sense of security and we’ll expand on this later in the guide.
• Expect disrupted sleep. Puppies may cry at night for the first few nights. Be patient and consistent. Keep the crate near your bed and expect them to need to potty every 4-6 hours.
• Start bonding. Hand feed meals, reward them for eye contact, and just hang out together.
• Make an appointment with your vet! This is a requirement of the contract and it’s important to establish a baseline of care and schedule for upcoming vaccinations and check-ups.

Recommended Supplies

Small crate (it’s important it’s not too big!)	Brush and nail trimmer
Puppy Food (see Nutrition section)	A clicker (not really necessary, but we love them for how easy they make early training
Training Treats
Leash and Collar with ID tag	Flea and Tick control (ask your vet what they recommend)
Toys and Chews (Lots of them!)
Baby gates or x-pen	Stain and odor remover (accidents WILL happen

Health & Veterinary Care

Your puppy will need a vet visit within the first few days after going home. The puppies have been seen by our vet between 7-8 weeks old, but it’s important to establish a record of care with your own vet and follow their recommended care advice.

Bring the health certificate and ask your vet to record their microchip. Confirm when the next deworming is due, what vaccines they recommend, and what the local disease risks are, especially for parvo. Ask about feeding guidelines, heartworm prevention, and flea and tick control.

Puppies require a series of vaccinations for full protection. Your puppy has already received their first set, but they will need additional boosters. Avoid high-risk areas like dog parks until at least two rounds of vaccines are complete. Full immunity is not achieved until after the one-year booster.

We’ve dewormed the puppies with Panacur at 8 weeks, but your vet may desire additional rounds of treatment, we recommend taking a fecal sample in during your first visit to confirm what may be needed. Heartworm prevention and flea and tick treatment should begin as advised by your veterinarian.

Spay or neuter should be delayed until your dog is at least two years old. Pediatric neutering can increase the risk of joint issues, including hip and elbow dysplasia. Waiting allows the growth plates to close properly and gives your puppy the best chance at long-term orthopedic health. We do not require you to wait, but if done before two years old, our health guarantee will be voided.

It’s important to recognize signs of illness early. Puppies can go downhill quickly. If you notice vomiting, diarrhea, lethargy, loss of appetite, coughing, or anything unusual, call your vet. Trust your instincts and don’t wait it out if something seems off.

Nutrition and Feeding

Your puppy is currently eating Inukshuk 30/25 . We recommend continuing with this food unless you have a reason to change, in which case we’re happy to help you evaluate other options. Look for gain-inclusive foods with meat as the first ingredient and a protein-to-fat ratio of 30/20. Avoid boutique, exotic, or grain-free diets unless directed by your vet. The protein-to-fat ratio is important and we do not recommend feeding anything under this until they are at least a year old.

Puppies should be fed two to three times per day. Soften their kibble with warm water for a few minutes before feeding, especially during the transition. Start with about one cup per meal and give them 15 to 20 minutes to eat. If they finish it quickly, you can slowly increase the portion. Most puppies will eat between two to four cups per day, depending on size and energy level.

Hand feeding meals as part of training is one of the best ways to build engagement and a strong bond with your puppy. It teaches them to focus on you and makes training sessions more productive. Use meal kibble or high-value treats for rewards throughout the day.

We do not recommend free feeding. Leaving food out all day makes it difficult to track how much your dog is eating, reduces motivation in training, and increases the risk of obesity. Scheduled meals also make housebreaking easier and help you notice changes in appetite that may indicate illness.

We highly recommend supplements such as omega-3s, joint support, and probiotics. Always consult your vet before adding supplements. If you plan to add raw or fresh food, be cautious and do your research to ensure proper balance. Please reach out for specific recommendations or questions. We’ll eventually be adding a list of the supplements we use and their purposes.

When choosing treats, pick soft, high-value options for training and limit junky or high-fat treats. Use treats intentionally, and try not to let your puppy fill up on snacks between meals. Avoid rawhide, cooked bones, and anything with artificial dyes. Chews should be safe, size-appropriate, and supervised.

Growth, Weight, and Fitness

Maintaining your dog’s ideal weight is one of the most important things you can do for their long-term health. Overweight dogs are more likely to develop joint issues, heart disease, and other chronic problems. A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to feel your dog’s ribs easily without a thick layer of fat, and they should have a visible waist when viewed from above. One of the requirements of our contract is that your vet assess their Body Condition Score (BCS) on at least an annual basis, and we believe this to be the most objective measure of fitness.

Puppies need regular exercise, but too much or the wrong type can cause lasting harm. Avoid high-impact activities like running on pavement, jumping from heights, or long-lasting repetitive fetch games during the first year. These can strain growing joints and cause damage before growth plates have closed. Let your puppy play freely in safe areas and encourage low-impact movement like walking, light tug, and gentle play with stable surfaces.

Avoid forced exercise. This includes jogging, long hikes, treadmill use, or extended activity sessions that your puppy can’t opt out of. Puppies should be allowed to stop when they are tired. Overexertion can cause both physical and behavioral problems.

German Shepherds are naturally athletic dogs. As your puppy grows, their endurance and ability to handle more activity will increase. By the time they reach maturity, they’ll be capable of sustained work, but that ability needs to be developed gradually. You can begin teaching the foundations of fitness and coordination through play-based activities like climbing, balance work, and light fetch on soft surfaces.

Structure, Routine, and House Manners

Crate training is one of the most valuable tools for raising a well-adjusted dog. The crate gives your puppy a safe, quiet place to rest and helps with potty training, chewing control, and independence. Start using it right away for naps, meals, and nighttime sleep. Keep the crate in a quiet area or near your bed at night to help your puppy settle. The goal is for your dog to see the crate as their personal space, not a punishment.

Too much freedom too soon is one of the most common mistakes new owners make. Puppies need supervision and boundaries to prevent bad habits from forming. If they are left to roam the house unsupervised, they will have accidents, chew things they shouldn’t, and develop unwanted behaviors. Until your puppy is mature and trustworthy, limit their access to small, manageable areas where you can keep an eye on them.

Pens, baby gates, and closed doors are excellent tools to create safe spaces. Choose areas where your puppy can’t get into trouble and provide enrichment like chew toys, puzzle feeders, and a bed or crate. Rotate toys to keep them interesting. These controlled spaces make it easier to teach your puppy what is and isn’t allowed while keeping them safe.

Set a daily routine to help your puppy know what to expect. Feed at the same times each day, go outside on a regular schedule, and build in time for play, rest, and training. Predictability helps your puppy feel secure and makes housetraining much easier.

Don’t underestimate how quickly bad habits can form. Jumping, barking, mouthing, counter-surfing, and other nuisance behaviors often start small and grow because they’re unintentionally rewarded. Be proactive about interrupting and redirecting unwanted behavior before it becomes a problem. Don’t rely on punishment after the fact. Reward calm, desirable behaviors consistently and use structure to prevent chaos from the start.

Socialization & Exposure

Socialization is not about making your dog love everyone and everything, it’s about helping them learn to remain calm, neutral, and confident in a wide range of situations. We want puppies who can go into public spaces, ignore distractions, and focus on their handler. German Shepherds are naturally more aloof and suspicious than some other breeds, so it’s especially important to approach socialization intentionally and with structure.

You don’t need to wait until your puppy is fully vaccinated to begin socializing them. In fact, the most critical window for socialization is between 8 and 16 weeks of age. Use common sense and avoid high-risk environments like dog parks or pet store floors, but don’t keep your puppy in complete isolation. Safe options include outings to places like hardware stores, friends’ homes, quiet parks, and controlled training classes. Exposure to new surfaces, sounds, people, and environments during this period is essential for building resilience.

Focus on teaching neutrality. This means your puppy should notice new things, but not fixate on them. If your puppy sees something unfamiliar and chooses to check in with you, mark and reward it. Praise calm behavior and disengagement. Avoid encouraging strangers to pet your puppy or allowing them to approach without your direction. Let your puppy observe at their own pace and make calm choices.

Avoid chaotic environments like dog parks and daycares. These settings are unpredictable and can expose your puppy to unhealthy, fearful, or aggressive dogs. Negative experiences can create long-term behavioral issues. Controlled one-on-one play with a well-mannered adult dog you know and trust is a better choice.

If you have children, or your puppy will frequently interact with kids, supervise all interactions. Teach children how to respect the puppy’s space and energy level. Puppies should be taught that children are safe and predictable, not unpredictable and overstimulating. Puppies that grow up with structured exposure to respectful kids tend to become confident, tolerant adult dogs.

Training

Training is not optional for a German Shepherd. These are intelligent, high-drive dogs bred to think, work, and solve problems. Without training and structure, that intelligence will create problems rather than solve them. A well-trained dog is safer, happier, more confident and a much easier to live with.

Your first goals should be simple: recall, engagement, and neutrality. Teach your puppy to come when called, pay attention to you, and stay calm in new environments. These skills are the foundation for everything else. Start in low-distraction areas and gradually increase difficulty as your puppy succeeds. Reward generously. Your goal is not just obedience—it’s a relationship built on trust.

We recommend starting with in-person training classes, especially if they are small, controlled, and run by experienced trainers who understand working breeds. Group classes provide structured socialization and help build handler focus. We also strongly recommend online courses such as “Raising Your Puppy with Michael Ellis” and “Your Puppy 8 Weeks to 12 Months.” These offer excellent guidance no matter your goals.

Confidence is built through exposure, success, and support. Let your puppy climb, explore, problem-solve, and experiment. Don’t correct insecurity. Instead, reward bravery and help them build positive associations. Let your puppy learn that you are a consistent, fair leader they can rely on.

Biting, barking, jumping, and chewing are all normal puppy behaviors. That doesn’t mean you should allow them. Redirect, manage, and teach alternate behaviors. Give your puppy things they’re allowed to bite. Teach them to sit calmly when they want something. Reinforce quiet instead of barking. Puppies who are taught what to do—not just what not to do—become confident and stable adults.

Crate games and simple engagement drills are incredibly valuable. Teach your puppy to run into their crate happily, to wait patiently, and to focus on you before being released. Work on name recognition, handler engagement, and impulse control. These micro-skills pay off for a lifetime.

If your long-term goal includes sport, protection work, or advanced obedience, we’re happy to help you find a reputable trainer to work with. The most important thing in the early months is engagement, drive building, and relationship.

Breed-Specific Behavior

German Shepherds are a working breed. Their intelligence, athleticism, drive, and devotion to their people make them exceptional, but also demanding. These dogs are thinkers and doers, and when that energy isn’t channeled productively, it finds its own outlet.

Terms like drive, nerve, and temperament are often misunderstood but are critical to understand. Drive refers to the dog’s motivation to perform certain tasks. Nerve is their ability to handle stress or pressure. Temperament is the overall emotional and behavioral profile. A balanced German Shepherd should be confident, clear-headed, and capable of independent thinking without being anxious, fearful, or overly reactive. These qualities vary between individuals and are shaped by both genetics and upbringing.

It’s normal for your dog to be suspicious of strangers, bark at new things, or be sensitive to movement and sound. These are traits that make the breed effective in working roles. The goal is not to suppress these instincts, but to guide them into controlled, appropriate behaviors. Don’t be alarmed by normal breed-specific tendencies. Instead, work with them through structured training and exposure.

Protection is not instinctive. Aggression is. True protection work is a trained behavior—clear-headed, controlled, and handler-focused. A dog that is allowed or encouraged to “protect” without training will become a liability. If you want a dog who will deter threats, focus on obedience, neutrality, and strong engagement. If you want to pursue protection sports, do so under the guidance of a professional.

Living with a high-drive dog means meeting their needs. That includes physical exercise, mental stimulation, problem-solving, and social boundaries. It also means giving them time to rest and disconnect. A good working dog has an off-switch. Help your puppy develop one through structure, clarity, and calm time. These dogs thrive when given a job, a leader, and a reason to work—and that starts at home.

Your Role in Our Program

Our goal with every litter is to improve the breed with better structure, better health, and better temperament. This is why our contract includes incentives for health testing and titling. As the breeder, we’ve done everything we can to ensure our breeding dogs are healthy, but no one can guarantee their offspring will be free of disease. The best way to keep improving is by understanding the outcomes of all the dogs we produce.

Health testing might sound complicated, but we’re here to make it simple. Your puppy has already been DNA tested through Embark, which gives us a great baseline for genetic diseases. What we can’t do ourselves are the physical evaluations that must be done once your dog is older. These can include hip and elbow x-rays, cardiac screenings, thyroid panels, and ACVO eye exams. The hip and elbow results are the most important for our program, but we value all of them.

OFA Hips and Elbows: OFA is a nonprofit that certifies dogs for inherited orthopedic diseases. The process involves taking your dog to the vet where they are sedated and x-rayed. The x-rays are then  submitted by the vet to OFA for grading. Hips can receive a score of Excellent, Good, Fair, or one of several failing grades. Elbows are either Normal or graded as dysplastic.

PennHIP: This method evaluates the laxity in the hip joint and is more predictive than OFA. It can be done as early as 16 weeks and must be performed by a certified PennHIP vet. We strongly prefer PennHIP due to its reliability and value to our breeding program but still believe OFA is important, as the two programs evaluate different aspects of the hips.

Our ideal is to do both OFA and PennHIP at the same time after the dog is two years old. We’re happy to help coordinate everything—from finding the right vet and scheduling the appointment to filling out the paperwork. If needed, we can even help with transport at no cost to you. The total cost for both evaluations is typically $500–800 and only needs to be done once.

Our contract includes credits for submitting hip and elbow results, and we’re happy to offer increased incentives for additional evaluations like thyroid or eye exams. If both OFA and PennHIP are performed, we’ll provide a guaranteed credit of $600 of off your next puppy from us. For Cardiac and ACVO, we will credit the cost of the tests towards your next purchase as well.

These tests are entirely voluntary, but the information is invaluable to us. If you’re interested, reach out and we’ll take care of the rest!

Titling:

We also offer credits for owners who title puppies they bought from us. Our gold standards are bitework titles, including PSA, French Ring, IGP, Mondio Ring, and more! Any dog who receives a level 2 or higher will receive a $500 discount on their next puppy from us.

We also understand just how much of a commitment it is to compete in these sports and that many owners want to compete in other sports. We also value these titles! Things like scentwork, dock diving, herding, and even Fast Cat or a GCG can be used to acquire credits on future puppies. Due to the varied nature and difficulty of these titles, we review each of them on a case by case basis and often times will want to see advanced titles in multiple sports to consider them. Conformation is also accepted, but must be accompanied by sporting titles.

If you are interested in completing these with your dogs, let us know and we’re happy to discuss it further with you!